Updated: Jan 19
Manipulating the skin’s defense mechanism for optimal absorption of everyday products.
By Sash Moreaux
Sensation, control, and protection are some of the most important functions of the skin, which is the largest organ in the human body. Even though absorption is one of the roles, the skin's natural tendency is to defend itself first. How does this affect skincare? It basically means that the skin will try to protect itself from a foreign substance by not allowing full penetration, which prevents the skin from fully accepting, using, and benefiting from many ingredients we use in the treatment room. This happens when the body doesn't recognize an ingredient as "relative," "familiar," or a naturally occurring substance in the body. Numerous strategies have been suggested to improve the skin's ability to absorb bioactive substances.
Because of their lipid composition, improved biocompatibility, and capacity to penetrate the epidermis, nanocarriers such nanoemulsions, lipid nanoparticles, and liposomes are frequently the most widely used of these methods. Adding cannabinoids to other compounds is another technique. Since the human body already has Endocannibinoid Systems 1 and 2, cannabis-infused goods often easily penetrate the skin. There are various strategies estheticians can employ to promote absorption besides using chemistry in substances to allow molecular shrinkage for optimal penetration. Importing ingredients is most frequently done in the following ways:
Microneedling Infusion, also known as microneedling channeling is the process of creating nanochannels in the skin by using tiny or nano point needle tips and a tool with stamping mechanisms. These small punctures not only induce controlled trauma reactions in the skin but also serve as irrigation channels for beneficial ingredients that might not have reached that depth without the treatment.
Ultrasound is another option. We can use ultrasonic oscillating frequency to penetrate beneficial ingredients into the skin. Depending on the type of ultrasound you use and its specifications, some ultrasonic technologies, like Meaux Co. Rejuveneaux, offer an alternate form of high-intensity focused ultrasound (HIFU) that they refer to as LIFU, or lower intensity but high focused ultrasound. The SMAS layer of the tissue layers can be securely reached thanks to this jet stream focused of ultrasound for product penetration! It makes it possible for these incredible nutrients to absorb fully, enhancing their effectiveness.
Photodynamic light therapy, or LED light therapy, is another way we can permeate things. As some substances can induce photosensitivity and encourage low grade burns and skin peeling, which may not be the purpose of your specific treatment plan, it is crucial that the professional knows what products are suitable under the light. Low-emitting diodes (LEDs), a type of low-grade laser, are used in LED light treatment. As a result, the light not only has many positive effects on the skin on its own, but it can also help some product ingredients penetrate the skin more deeply, promoting absorption.
Another method to boost absorption is through radar wave technology. In contrast to Radio Frequency, which uses diathermyl heat via radio sound waves, Radar uses thermage, or thermal heat energy, to warm the tissue, relax the skin, and encourage vasodilation. Vasodilation promotes increased blood flow, opens blood vessels, and relaxes the skin in the body, which improves absorption.
Another method to remove surface dirt is cleansing and exfoliation. In order to allow beneficial components to enter, double cleansing can ensure that all dirt, make-up, and debris are eliminated. By exfoliating the skin, you start to break down the protective barrier safely and enable the skin to prepare for accepting the products you wish for it to receive. Dead skin cells can prevent product absorption, and this is a very simple and easy way to help in the removal on the top barrier, the first line of defense, the first layer.
The last item on the list is hydrodermabrasion devices, which are excellent at deep cleansing, exfoliating, and pushing product ingredients deep into the tissue. Many of these devices also have an ionic oxygen spraying device that uses air pressure after the cleanse and exfoliation to penetrate the boosting ingredients all the way into the tissue, producing a healthy and amazing glow.
All the incredible goods and product lines, some of which are very expensive—serums and moisturizers may cost upwards of $200—are useless if the skin's vital functions are hindering their entry. They are only effective if they are being absorbed by the skin and at the correct depths to do their job. Being an esthetician means we can do the basic work, and utilize the advanced technology offered to us via our licenses.